Amatriciana: A History
Amatriciana originated in the green pastures of the mountains overlooking Amatrice, where shepherds used to bring cheese and pieces of pork jowl with them during long stays away from home and cook them in an iron pan. They made fresh pasta using flour and water from the mountain springs they encountered during their journey. As any classic Italian dish, it was born out of necessity, with ingredients easily found or produced. The trick is just a few ingredients, but of the highest quality. This original dish is called ‘Amatriciana Bianca’ which is now known as ‘Gricia’.
It was only at the end of the 1700s that tomatoes and chilis, two ingredients native to South America, were brought to Italy and added to the dish to create the modern version, ‘Amatriciana’. Both dishes are found at every Roman restaurant, but there is one thing that sets them apart from the original version made in Amatrice. As Gabriele, oldest still working chef in Italy and owner of Ristorante La Conca in Amatrice says, ‘a Roma se usa er bucatino’. In Rome they use bucatini pasta, but the original is strictly made with spaghetti. Try both and see what you think!
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